Released on March 10, 2022, this unadulterated video documents the first ascent of a 20-year-old route in coastal Italy by one of the best climbers of all time.
When Stefano Ghisolfi calls a climb “the hardest route of central Italy,” take his word for it. The 29-year-old Olympic medalist’s 5.15+ tick list is second only to that of Adam Ondra. And as a native Italian, he has probably sampled more of the country’s climbing than any of his contemporaries.
The route in question is “L’Arenauta” (5.15b/9b), a mostly horizontal limestone line that crawls up and across the roof of Grotta dell’Arenauta cave. Bolted more than two decades ago by Giuliano Taruini, “L’Arenauta” stood without a first ascent until Ghisolfi’s redpoint go on Feb. 8, 2022.
“This pitch, bolted 20 years ago, finally is a free climb. It finally has a name,” Ghisolfi said after nabbing the first ascent. “I hope there will be repetitions soon. I’m looking forward to other people [feeling] the same emotions I felt.”
If the grade is confirmed, “L’Arenauta” will be the first 5.15b/9b sport climb in central and southern Italy.
Runtime: 10 minutes
Bonus: If you’d like to dig a little deeper, check out “L’Arenauta, a 20 years old project,” the 27th episode of Ghisolfi’s YouTube series “The Climbing Diaries.”
Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite
Clashes over climbing grades are as old as the sport itself. From Fred Rouhling to Adam Ondra, climbing has both vilified and lionized its icons. But why? Read more…
