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A Case for Grading the World’s Hardest New Sport Climb

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Seb Bouin climbs hard AF. But, what gives a 5.15b climber the authority to grade a route 5.15d?

When he claimed the first ascent of “DNA” back in May, Seb Bouin had never sent a climb harder than 5.15b/9b. But when he called it 5.15d/9c — the same grade as the hardest route in the world — few questioned his judgment.

This explainer from Climbers Crag provides a well-researched dive into the climber as well as the route. It starts by listing Bouin’s many astounding climbing accomplishments, and then it digs into his journey to the redpoint of “DNA.”

The filmmakers also peppered it with an assortment of little-known facts. Here’s a taste: Did you know that Bouin has belayed Adam Ondra on several of his hardest first ascents?

Kick back, crag nerds. This one’s for you.

Runtime: 17 minutes

Seb Bouin on "DNA"
World’s Hardest Sport Climb? Seb Bouin Thinks His New Route Cuts It
5.15 climber Seb Bouin holds a handful of unrepeated first ascents 5.15b and harder. He thinks his new route is equivalent to the hardest on the planet. Read more…
Jilli Cluff
By

Jilli grew up in the rural southern Colorado mountains, later moving to Texas for college. After seven years in corporate consulting, she was introduced to sport climbing — and life would never be the same.
She now works as a contributor, gear tester, and editor for GearJunkie and other outlets within the AllGear family.
She is based out of Atlanta, Georgia where she takes up residence with her climbing gear and one-eared blue heeler, George Michael.

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